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Malaysia

Malaysia Part 1

Ancient Histories and Modern Cities


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We are now on to an overland segment of our trip were we will travel by bus, boat, and train for a long time before boarding a plane again. At least that is the plan under its current revision! It could not be at a better time after our lousy day at the airport in Sydney. We boarded a very comfortable bus for a 4 hour ride to the town of Melaka in Malaysia. Situated on the straights of Melaka this historic port city was a strategic and wealthy trade center with China, India, Thailand, and Indonesia. In 1405 the Chinese Sailor Chung Ho stopped in Melaka on the first of his 7 sea voyages between China and points west. This led to a long and colorful history that can bee seen in the architecture and read about in the museums. Melaka was declared a World Heritage Site some time in the last couple years. Hopefully this will help preserve the charm and old buildings.
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Dutch Buildings from their occupation of Melaka in the 1700’s
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Old Buildings along the Straights of Melaka
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Old Rooftops and the odd Satellite dish.

We had arrived Melaka on a busy Holiday weekend and the town was bursting at the seams with local Malaysians and Singaporeans out for the long weekend. There were a ton of rickshaw drivers out and about in their over decorated bikes. It was almost like a competition to see who had the most lavishly decorated bike with the most lights, pinwheels, and of course the loudest sound system.
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King of the Trikes in his kingdom of happy tourists

Their was also a lively night market going on and the main drag through the old town was closed off and full of vendors hawking food and assorted junk. It was fun to walk around and take it all in even though the crowds were a little overwhelming. At the far end of the walk they had erected a stage big enough for Woodstock 3 and what a scene it was. Folks gathered to sit in plastic chairs while people sang karaoke over an enormous sound system. It was really odd and to make it even stranger their was the scene on stage. The stage itself was huge. Front and center on a small stand was a small TV which the singer stood in front of. Other than this the only thing else on the stage was a 6 foot tall Asian man looking especially feminine and most likely wearing makeup. He was dancing. He was the only person dancing. He was not the MC, did not announce the singers or say anything, just resumed his dancing as soon as the music started. Truly weird.
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Eat your heart out Tony, this is Malaysian Karaoke!
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Doing the Jonga Walk!
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Wooden sculpture for sale in the market

One fun thing we did that felt far from home was a visit to the fish spa. Here for less than $3 a bunch of curios little fish went to town on all the dead skin on your feet. Up to this point we both had accumulated a lot of dead skin and this left our feat feeling soft and smooth!
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Feasting Fish!

We also went out for a true taste of adventure dining. We went to a satay restaurant that was not to be missed. Here locals qued up outside in the street to get in for the well known fare. Just as we started to realize we were the only westerners in line a Malaysian gentleman in front of us struck up conversation by asking how we found out about this place! He was really nice and gave us the low down on how things worked and what to order. Unfortunately even with his recommendations, and him pointing things out to me before we got in, we still had very little idea about what most things were and there were not a lot of easy options. All the tables in the restaurant were stainless steel and each was hooked up to a propane tank with a recessed burner in the middle. Here they would place a pot with the magical sauce that made the place so legendary. Along one wall was a open cooler with trays stacked with many many different meats, seafood, vegetables, breads, and other assorted items we could not identify. You loaded up your tray with what you wanted and then cooked it in the boiling sauce at your table. People were going to town! Tables were overflowing with trays and spattered sauce as people crammed in to get their feed on. It was delicious, and those of you that know me know I do not use that term lightly. If we knew what we were eating and had a crew of friends with us I could see how it would be a really fun dinner. When it was all said and done the meal was less than ten dollars and we were both very full.
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Queing up for Capital Satay… Can you find Meghan?
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Hmmm… so many choices so little clues
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Get your tiger prawn on!

From here it was on to the capital city of Malaysia and home to the famous Petronas towers, Kuala Lumpur. Here we met face to face with a gritty city that seemed cosmopolitan in some places and downright grungy in others. The Public transportation system (are you noticing a theme yet) was a mess with 4 different systems that did not work with each other and lousy streets for walking. We tried to occupy our time but generally did not really enjoy it to much. I am sure KL has a lot to offer but we were growing tired of big cities after Sydney and Singapore and were eager to get out to the country side. We did take in a very cool bird park in the city’s gardens. It was advertised as the worlds largest free flight bird avitory. It was a lot of fun and we got to have lunch with a few inquisitive hornbills at the parks hornbill café.
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Petronas Towers
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The impressive Hornbill reducing himself to a thief of french fries

Another part of KL that seamed unavoidable was the Mega shopping malls on every street corner. This was almost even more prevalent than in Singapore and as Christmas was getting closer there was even more activity. Muslim families, dressed head to toe in traditional Islamic garb, waited in line to plop their kids on Santa’s lap for a photo while songs glorifying the birth of Christ played in the background? Explain that one to us. Here we found the Christmas commercialism at its best with gaudy store windows and hordes of Malaysians buying into the Christmas spirit.
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Is this Malaysia?

In need of escape we found an elusive bus stop and jumped on board for a few days out of town in a small town called Kuala Selangor. This place was a bit off the guide book tourist track and we enjoyed a few quiet nights in a town without tour guides and English menus. Did I say quiet? I am sure I have already mentioned the fact that everywhere you go in Malaysia there is a Muslim Mosque and they blare their call to prayer five time daily over loudspeakers for all the country to hear. The first has been somewhere close to the 5am hour! It is not that bad when it is not waking you up in the morning because the song prayers most places have been actually really good and interesting to listen to. In Kuala Selangor we enjoyed playing with monkeys, walking in a nice nature park when the huge water monitor lizards would let us pass, and a boat trip up a river that was lined with berembang trees that were home to thousands of fireflies. We considered this our Christmas lights as it was a spectacular sight.

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Feel free to find some recorded prayers online, crank up the speakers, and spend and early morning with Meghan and I
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Water Monitor Lizard
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Mangrove forest at nature park
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Friendly Monkey, maybe a little to friendly
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One more photo and I go bananas

We had to head back to KL for a few nights before heading into the high country so we took a trip out of town to the Batu Caves. Here a flight of 272 steps in the shadow of a giant golden statue of the Murugan, one of the many Hindu gods, leads to a giant limestone cave filled with shrines. This was impressive but had we come about a month later it would have been the bizarre festival of Thaipusam. During this time up to a million pilgrims make their way to these caves. Some devotees display exorbitant acts body piercing in a devotion of fulfillment of answered prayers.
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Entrance To the Batu Caves
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Lunch at Batu Caves - Best Indian food yet!

Posted by pmunson 05:04 Archived in Malaysia Comments (2)

Kuala Lumpur to Penang

Malaysia part 2

We were glad to get out of Kuala Lumpur for the second time. We were heading inland for the first time and to the largest National Park in Malaysia, Teman Negara. Home to hidden elephants and tigers, the park has a lot of jungle trekking and the worlds longest canopy walk. After the 4 hour bus ride to the closest town with a bus station we had to hop a quick cab to the jetty were we arrived a few minutes before the last scheduled departure of the day. Here a long boat took us on a three hour tour up a wide and muddy river through dense forest. We felt the full force of a tropical downpour for some of the ride but managed to keep ourselves mostly dry. This was one of two ways to reach this entrance to the park. The other being via road, we opted for the longer, wetter and not as comfortable 3 hour long boat trip, but worth every second!

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Long boats to Teman Negara
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Caught in the rain

We stayed two nights in a colorful guest house and spent an entire day exploring a very small part of the park including the canopy walk. ½ of the 580 meter walk was closed for repairs but the ½ we saw was still impressive. A rope bridge with a narrow plank walkway was spread out from one tall tree to the next high above the jungle floor. In one section their was a ladder staircase that had one lady in tears, cursing her family for “making” her come there! Because of the rainy season the trails were really muddy and the hiking was slow going and difficult. We were able to get to the top of one of the smaller peaks for a view. On the way back we spotted the leaches we were warned about. One on my leg and a few more on our boots. These little suckers looked more like an inchworm than the fat black leaches I remember from home. They rise up out of the mud and come inching towards you at surprising speed. Really creepy but generally harmless unless you let a whole lot of them go unnoticed.

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Walking the Canopy
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The view of things to come (Rain) from Bukit Terisek in Teman Negara

The layout of the park entrance and accompanying village was pretty interesting. HQ stood at the junction of two large rivers while the village was on the opposite side. There were water taxis that would take you back and fourth across the river for about 30 cents US. The village was composed of a few floating restaurants lining the shore. From the floating restaurants there were gangplanks leading to shore were a few muddy paths led up the hill to an eclectic cluster of guesthouses, locals homes, and a few odd convenience store like shops. Other than that their was not to much going on.

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Long boats
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Floating Restaurant
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Tahan Gueast House

We opted for the more expensive and less challenging transport option to our next stop in the Cameron Highlands. Instead of taking three or four buses and perhaps losing a day in a town that we were not sure had accommodation we decided to pay at least twice as much to take a mini bus ride in a sort of shared taxi through one of the tour operators. It was faster than the bus, a little less comfortable, and used a lot less brain power!

Ahh the Cameron Highlands! At 5000 feet above see level the air was cool and dry! Well maybe not compared to our home in Colorado but it was a welcomed refuge from the heat and humidity. We were actually cold the first night! We stayed in a marvelously simple guesthouse with a gracious host who could not have been more friendly. There is plenty of good trekking in the area as well as expansive tea plantations but we decided to take our first day off and just laze around the guesthouse. When we did get out we walked though a beautiful tea plantation were endless rolling hillsides were lush with tea bushes and workers out cutting the leaf. We learned about the tea making process and took our afternoon tea at the elevated tea house/visitor center over looking over the grounds. The cool weather made for nice walking so we decided to walk all the way back out to the main road.

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Boa Tea Plantation
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Boa Tea Plantation
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Employee Housing
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In addition to modern machinery they still cut the steepest parts of the plantation the old fashioned way

Meghan caught a bit of a cold while on the bus ride in so she took it easy for a few days. During this time I made it out on a long hike to a couple of peaks with good views of the town and surrounding areas. The trails were hard to follow in some places and I actually wound up hiking farther than I had originally planned. I came out of the jungle in a village that was still holding on to some of its old ways. I had to walk straight through the village and got as many strange looks as smiling faces before I was on the way to the main road again.

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Cameron Highlands View
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Village at the end of my hike

From the Highlands it was onto Penang, an island on the north east coast of Malaysia and was designated a World Heritage Sight, as was Melaka. The draw of Penang for most is the old city with its temples, architecture and people than beaches or water sports. We somehow found ourselves staying at the worst guesthouse yet, complete with awfully musty and moldy rooms and a rat infestation.

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Anyone for a Bath?

We randomly ran into the father son Germans for the fourth of our 5 stops in Malaysia and wound up drinking beers with them and they got us to go to some really cheesy nightclub. Being Saturday after the new year it was super quiet and at one time we were the only ones in the entire place.
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Dinner with Lutz and his Father
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Tasty Satay
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A little Seafood action for all my people on the East Coast

We also visited the best temple that we had been to yet but the real highlight was the town itself. Penang was stocked up with old world charm. Everywhere you walked their were dark old shops were men huddled around fixing old broken machinery. Or shops where old Chinese men wove whicker furniture, repaired trishaws, sewed clothing, sold spare parts out of oily cardboard boxes, or carved signs by hand. The city was filled with ancient architecture in picturesque states of decay. There were endless narrow alleyways and side streets that one could get lost in for hours at a time. On one of my walks I came across an really cool old antiques shop. It was once a bike repair shop and now was more of one man’s personal museum. There were bikes dating back to the 30’s and cases full of old parts, peddles and accessories. There was an entire case filled with old leather saddles and a lot of them were the popular Brooks brand still made today. Some of the bikes crammed into the shop were really interesting models I hade never herd of or seen before. I took hundreds of photos in Penang as every inch of the city was interesting. Here are a few.

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Overcrowded turtle pond at the entrance to Kek Lok Si Temple
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10,000 Buddhas Pagoda at Kek Lok Si
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To Many Pictures of Penang (Georgetown)
Temples
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Windows and Doors

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Bicycles

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Other Random Penang
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Fishing Village
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Slow Food Cafe

From here we are on to Thailand. Malaysia was an incredibly interesting country with its diverse populations. We did not try to explore the less populated east coast were most of the beaches and islands were because it was monsoon season. While we were disappointed about this we knew that we would have plenty of time on the beach in Thailand. This left us with the old cities of Melaka and Penang, the outdoors oriented Cameron Highlands and Taman Negara National Park, the small town of Kuala Selangor, and the capital of Kuala Lumpur. The highlights for me were the world heritage cities for their old world charm and interesting architecture followed by Cameron highlands simply because for the cool dry climate. The people of Malaysia we came in contact with were really friendly and helpful. I feel like we got a good taste of western peninsular Malaysia. But much more remains to be explored including Borneo!

Posted by pmunson 05:22 Archived in Malaysia Comments (2)

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